To NOLA and back
I thought back in September that I would never get the chance to ever see New Orleans. Thankfully, I was wrong. Le Sweetie suggested a fun-filled four-day weekend at NOLA's Jazz and Heritage Festival, and I jummped at the chance.
Just one thing... "Where will we be staying?" I asked Le Sweetie.
"In a hotel," he replied.
Nice. "A hotel where?"
"In the French Quarter, which wasn't damaged so badly," was his reply.
Driving to and from the festival grounds, I saw lots of beautiful old houses reduced to hollowed-out husks, the words TFW scrawled in red paint on the front. I saw other houses completely destroyed, and the occasional FOR SALE or FOR RENT sign (good luck guys). I saw debris scattered on the lawns and piled up on the curb. The bus driver commented--somewhat snarkily--that the presence of all the debris stacked up in front meant that FEMA was actually doing a good job of clearing away the rubble.
Speaking of FEMA, everywhere you looked you could see T-shirts for sale that read "FEMA: Federal Employees Missing Again." Also, "Katrina: That Bitch" and "I Stayed in New Orleans for Katrina and All I Got Was This Lousy T-shirt, a New Cadillac, and a Plasma TV." There were "Meet the Fockers" t-shirts with Michael Brown, Ray Nagin, Kathleen Blanco, and Aaron Broussard. Broussard, Blanco, and Nagin were portrayed as a "wrecking crew" on yet another shirt. (Blanco and Nagin I can see, but what's wrong with Broussard, anyway? What did he do that was so bad?)
Meanwhile, in tribute to Johnny Depp and Tim Burton, T-shirt makers wheeled out "Willie Nagin and the Chocolate City," amidst a backdrop of "Landrieu for Mayor" and "Re-elect Ray Nagin" posters. Yes, it's election time in NOLA, even though only 50 percent of the city has moved back. The Landrieu in question is Mitch Landrieu, brother of Senator Mary Landrieu. Mary is a deeply unimpressive politician who found herself at a loss for words last year when being questioned by Anderson Cooper. She's the quintessential milquestoast "can't-we-all-just-get-along-so-you-won't-hit-me" Democrat that the party definitely needs less of. Will her brother roll over for Dubya in case another disaster hits NOLA? Maybe that wacky Willie--erm, Ray--Nagin would be a better choice if such is the case.
But enough about that. Jazzfest was way fun for this first-time Jazzfester. Warm but not overwhelmingly so. There were lots of craft and souvenir stands, plenty of good food, and, of course, kick-ass music. Etta James and the Panorama Jazz Band were highlights. Etta can still sing, people. However, these days she sits down for some songs, 'cause she's pushing toward 70. Meanwhile, sixtysomething Bob Dylan played keyboards--not guitar--for his set because he's got arthritis in his shoulder. Dylan, unlike Etta, cannot sing anymore. He managed a decent semblance of singing in the 1960s and 1970s, but his voice is shot to pieces by now. The Panorama Jazz Band was pretty awesome, and so were the Mardi Gras Indian tribes with their brightly colored costumes and feather headdresses.
After being in New Orleans, I've suddenly developed an interest in Dixieland jazz, of all things. That, along with Irma Thomas and NOLA funk. I'm going to be listening to my new Papa Grow Funk live CD, and will possibly check out the Nevilles and Meters.
One neat part of Jazzfest: the book tent, where I recognized some NOLA-based mystery books that I'd worked on! I mentioned this to the cashier and he told me that one of the authors had just been in the tent about 10 minutes ago, but had left! And I didn't get to meet her! Darn.
Speaking of the Panorama Jazz Band, they have a Web site! Yay! I'm trying to find out if the Hard Headhunters, that cool band of Mardi Gras Indians, has a Web site, but no luck thus far.
Just one thing... "Where will we be staying?" I asked Le Sweetie.
"In a hotel," he replied.
Nice. "A hotel where?"
"In the French Quarter, which wasn't damaged so badly," was his reply.
Driving to and from the festival grounds, I saw lots of beautiful old houses reduced to hollowed-out husks, the words TFW scrawled in red paint on the front. I saw other houses completely destroyed, and the occasional FOR SALE or FOR RENT sign (good luck guys). I saw debris scattered on the lawns and piled up on the curb. The bus driver commented--somewhat snarkily--that the presence of all the debris stacked up in front meant that FEMA was actually doing a good job of clearing away the rubble.
Speaking of FEMA, everywhere you looked you could see T-shirts for sale that read "FEMA: Federal Employees Missing Again." Also, "Katrina: That Bitch" and "I Stayed in New Orleans for Katrina and All I Got Was This Lousy T-shirt, a New Cadillac, and a Plasma TV." There were "Meet the Fockers" t-shirts with Michael Brown, Ray Nagin, Kathleen Blanco, and Aaron Broussard. Broussard, Blanco, and Nagin were portrayed as a "wrecking crew" on yet another shirt. (Blanco and Nagin I can see, but what's wrong with Broussard, anyway? What did he do that was so bad?)
Meanwhile, in tribute to Johnny Depp and Tim Burton, T-shirt makers wheeled out "Willie Nagin and the Chocolate City," amidst a backdrop of "Landrieu for Mayor" and "Re-elect Ray Nagin" posters. Yes, it's election time in NOLA, even though only 50 percent of the city has moved back. The Landrieu in question is Mitch Landrieu, brother of Senator Mary Landrieu. Mary is a deeply unimpressive politician who found herself at a loss for words last year when being questioned by Anderson Cooper. She's the quintessential milquestoast "can't-we-all-just-get-along-so-you-won't-hit-me" Democrat that the party definitely needs less of. Will her brother roll over for Dubya in case another disaster hits NOLA? Maybe that wacky Willie--erm, Ray--Nagin would be a better choice if such is the case.
But enough about that. Jazzfest was way fun for this first-time Jazzfester. Warm but not overwhelmingly so. There were lots of craft and souvenir stands, plenty of good food, and, of course, kick-ass music. Etta James and the Panorama Jazz Band were highlights. Etta can still sing, people. However, these days she sits down for some songs, 'cause she's pushing toward 70. Meanwhile, sixtysomething Bob Dylan played keyboards--not guitar--for his set because he's got arthritis in his shoulder. Dylan, unlike Etta, cannot sing anymore. He managed a decent semblance of singing in the 1960s and 1970s, but his voice is shot to pieces by now. The Panorama Jazz Band was pretty awesome, and so were the Mardi Gras Indian tribes with their brightly colored costumes and feather headdresses.
After being in New Orleans, I've suddenly developed an interest in Dixieland jazz, of all things. That, along with Irma Thomas and NOLA funk. I'm going to be listening to my new Papa Grow Funk live CD, and will possibly check out the Nevilles and Meters.
One neat part of Jazzfest: the book tent, where I recognized some NOLA-based mystery books that I'd worked on! I mentioned this to the cashier and he told me that one of the authors had just been in the tent about 10 minutes ago, but had left! And I didn't get to meet her! Darn.
Speaking of the Panorama Jazz Band, they have a Web site! Yay! I'm trying to find out if the Hard Headhunters, that cool band of Mardi Gras Indians, has a Web site, but no luck thus far.
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